Varieties of Silk

Silk, one of the most prized natural fibers, is produced by silkworms through a process known as sericulture. While most people associate silk with soft, lustrous fabrics, few know that there are several varieties of silk, each with its unique characteristics, biological sources, and economic importance.

India is the only country in the world that produces all major varieties of silk, making it a global leader in sericulture diversity.

Major Varieties of Silk in India and the World

1. Mulberry Silk

1. Source: Bombyx mori

2. Host Plant: Mulberry (Morus alba)

3. Region: Karnataka, West Bengal, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh

4. Color: Naturally off-white or yellowish

5. Texture: Fine, smooth, and lustrous

6. Filament Length: Long, continuous fiber

7. Usage: High-quality garments, sarees, export textiles

✅ Most commercially important silk (over 70% of global silk production)

2. Tasar Silk (Tussar)

1. Species: Antheraea mylitta, Antheraea proylei (Tropical & temperate varieties)

2. Host Plants: Asan (Terminalia tomentosa), Arjun (Terminalia arjuna)

3. Region: Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, West Bengal

4. Color: Naturally golden-brown or coppery

5. Texture: Coarse, porous, and less lustrous than mulberry

6. Usage: Tribal handicrafts, sarees, scarves

✅ Eco-friendly and forest-based, Tasar supports tribal livelihoods and biodiversity.

3. Muga Silk

1. Species: Antheraea assamensis

2. Host Plants: Som (Persea bombycina), Soalu (Litsea polyantha)

3. Region: Assam (exclusively)

4. Color: Naturally golden yellow

5. Texture: Very durable, glossy, and fine

6. Usage: Traditional Assamese attire like mekhela chador, shawls

✅ Exclusive to Assam, Muga silk is GI-tagged and considered the rarest silk in the world.

4. Eri Silk (Endi or Ahimsa Silk)

1. Species: Samia ricini

2. Host Plant: Castor (Ricinus communis), Kesseru (Heteropanax fragrans)

3. Region: Assam, Meghalaya, Nagaland

4. Color: Creamy white to reddish

5. Texture: Soft, warm, wool-like

6. Usage: Stoles, shawls, winter wear

✅ Known as Ahimsa Silk since the pupa is not killed during reeling.

5. Spider Silk (Rare and Experimental)

1. Source: Golden Orb-Weaver (Nephila spp.)

2. Properties: High tensile strength, lightweight, and elastic

3. Applications: Biomedical uses, bulletproof materials (under research)

✅ Not used commercially due to challenges in mass production.

🧶 Comparison Table: Varieties of Silk

Silk Type	Silkworm Species	Color	Texture	Rearing Type
Mulberry	Bombyx mori	White/Off-white	Soft, lustrous	Fully domesticated
Tasar	Antheraea mylitta	Coppery/Golden-brown	Coarse, porous	Wild/semi-domesticated
Muga	Antheraea assamensis	Golden yellow	Glossy, fine	Semi-domesticated
Eri	Samia ricini	Creamy white	Warm, wool-like	Semi-domesticated
Spider	Nephila spp.	Golden	Strong, elastic	Experimental

🌍 Global Significance of Silk Varieties

1. China and India are the largest silk producers globally.

2. India is the only producer of Muga and Eri silk.

3. Different varieties of silk cater to luxury fashion, traditional textiles, and eco-conscious markets.

4. Non-mulberry silks are gaining popularity for their sustainability and ethical rearing practices.

📚 References:

1. Jolly, M. S., et al. (1979). Non-Mulberry Sericulture. FAO Agriculture Services Bulletin.

2. Thangavelu, K. (1991). Handbook of Sericulture: Technologies and Applications. Oxford & IBH Publishing.

3. Sengupta, K., & Dutta, R. N. (1992). Recent Advances in Sericulture. Central Silk Board, Bangalore.

4. Dandin, S. B., & Jayaswal, K. P. (2003). Handbook of Sericulture Technologies. CSB.

5. Central Silk Board, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. https://csb.gov.in

6. Chakravorty, R., & Neog, K. (2011). “Sericulture and Its Prospects in Assam,” Indian Silk Journal.